Tribals

The main tribe of Himachal Pradesh is the Gaddis. They also dwell in the state of Jammu and Kashmir and belong to various castes such as Rajputs, Brahmins, Thakur, Rana and Dhangar/Gaderiya. They are shepherds by profession and thus have to bear the full brunt of the harsh weather conditions. To protect themselves from the weather, they wear special coats known as Cholas. The Cholas are woven from special handspun variety of wools. The Cholas are tightened around the waist area with the help of a waistband also known as Dor. The Dor is usually made of sheep wool and are sometimes 60m in length. The portion above the Dor is loose and is used by the shepherd to stow stuffs such as lambs. The legs are covered with Pajamas made from Patti material, also known as Unali Suthan.

The Gaddis also wear a special type of headgear known as Topi, which are made from sheep wool, with a peak like projection and flaps on the sides. The projection represents the Mount Kailash and the flaps protect the ears of the shepherds during the harsh climatic conditions. The front of the cap is adorned with dried flowers, decorative beads and bird feathers. The Gaddis also sport a special type of leather show, known as Mocharu. They are very heavily built and thus correspond to durability and longevity.

During marriages and other festive occasions, the Gaddis wear cotton frocks which are red or maroon colored. The frocks are further decorated with frills, mirrors and pippins and are popularly known as Luancha or Kadds. They are tied around the waist area with yellow or white cotton strands, known as Patlka. Maroon or red colored shawl is worn over the frock and an intricate Sehra or veiled headgear is also worn as per customs.

The Gaddi women wear Luanchari with Dor and accompanied with long Dupattas. The Luancharis are very elaborate in make and requires around 20 meters of fabric. The Dors are usually black colored and it also serves the purpose of carrying loads on the back. The Luanchari of the young girls are more brightly colored. During the winter season, the women also wear white colored woolen Cholas, to escape the harsh weather.